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FAQ categories:
Wall
Switch Sensors & Time Out Switches
Ceiling Mount Occupancy Sensors
DT-300 360˚ Dual Technology Occupancy Sensors
Power Packs
Isolé Products
Logging Products
DM HID Control
Outdoor Sensors
AS-100 Automatic Control Switch
WR Residential Wall Switch
WN-100 Motion Sensor Nightlight
Miro Controls
FAQs on Watt Stopper Wall Switch Products (WS, WI, WA, TS models)
Q. Do Watt Stopper wall
switch sensors need to be grounded?
A. Yes, a quality ground is required for safety and for correct operation of
the sensor.
Q. Can I switch electric motors or exhaust fans with a WS?
A. Yes, we have a load rating of up to 1/6 hp at 120 or 277 VAC for the WS,
WI, WA, and TS.
Q. What is the load rating on the WS, WI, WA, and TS units?
A. 0-800W ballast or incandescent at 120 VAC and 0-1200 W ballast at 277VAC.
Q. What is SmartSet technology?
A. SmartSet technology is a feature in the WA-200 wall switch sensor that continuously
monitors a controlled area to learn typical usage patterns. It then automatically
adjusts time-delays and sensitivity based on findings to optimize energy savings.
Q. Are Watt Stopper wall switch sensors and time switches dual voltage?
A. Yes, the WS and WI switches are dual voltage. The WA and TS wall switches
are universal voltage, rated 100 - 300 VAC, 50/60 HZ. The WD dimming wall switch
sensor is voltage specific.
Q. What are the benefits of terminal style wiring?
A. Terminal style wiring makes installation quick and easy by eliminating the
use of wire nuts and by taking less room in the wall box.
Q. Is there a minimum load requirement for the wall switches?
A. No, the WS, WI, WA and TS have no minimum load requirement.
Q. Does The Watt Stopper manufacture a wall switch replacement to interface
with low voltage control systems?
A. Yes, our TS-400-24 24 VAC/VDC/VAC half-wave recitified digital time switch
contains a form C relay to interface with low voltage systems.
Q. Are Watt Stopper wall switch sensors compatible with Motorola Ballasts?
A. Yes, they are compatible with all electronic ballasts and incandescent loads.
Our switches feature Zero Crossing Circuitry and no leakage to load. This prevents
any inrush problems from electronic ballasts that may be experienced with other
switches.
Q. Can we switch 2 circuits with any of the wall switch sensors?
A. Yes, through the use of a power pack.
Q. What is the difference between the WA and the WS wall switch sensors?
A. The WA features SmartSet technology automatic time delay and sensitivity
adjustment, a vandal resistant lens, choice of automatic-ON or manual-ON operation,
300 square feet of coverage and contains a DIP switch for user settings. The
WS offers a choice of automatic-ON or manual-ON operation, 900 square feet of
coverage and uses trim pots for user settings.
Q. Can the wall switch sensors be used for bi-level switching?
A. Yes, with the use of the appropriate coverplate (ASP-122 for WI, ASP-432
for WA, WS) and the addition of a standard wall switch. See schematic #57-001.
Q. If I manually turn my WA wall switch sensor off when I leave the room,
will the lights automatically turn on when I return?
A. The WA wall switch sensors resume auto-ON operation five minutes after the
last detection.
Q. Can I use a wall switch sensor such as the WI in a classroom?
A. No, wall switch sensors are not recommended for classroom use. Classroom
applications require a high level of sensitivity to small motion in a large
area. Switch locations and classroom size and layout prevent any automatic wall
switch product from working successfully in these settings. A DT-200 or DT-300
dual technology sensor mounted on the ceiling will provide the most effective
control in a classroom.
Q. Can I use a dimmer in conjunction with a wall switch sensor?
A. Yes. The dimmer needs to be installed on the load side of the wall switch
sensor.
Q. Does the TS time switch automatically come on like a calendar clock on
scheduled times?
A. No, it is an electronic timer switch, not a time clock. After you have pressed
the on/off button, it will turn off the lights when the time limit expires.
Q. If I want to stay in the room longer than the time setting on my TS, do
I have to change the override setting?
A. No. The TS can be programmed to scroll through the time delay options by
holding the switch down for four seconds.
Q. Can the TS be used in a freezer application?
A. Yes, but mount the TS outside the freezer.
Q. Can I use the TS on a 3-way application?
A. Yes, you must use two TS switches for the 3 way to work.
Q. What is the maximum distance between the installation of the TS-400-24
and the lighting control panel?
A. 1000 feet.
Q. Is a power pack required to power the TS-400-24 time switch?
A. Not in all situations. The TS-400-24 accepts 24 VAC/VDC/VAC half-wave rectified
input, which can be received from a relay panel.
Q. Does the WA-300 feature zero crossing circuitry?
A. Yes, both relays are protected from in-rush current.
Q. Can I wire each relay of WA-300 to different input voltages?
A. Yes, per Article 300.3 of the NEC, "Conductors of circuits rated 600
volts, nominal, or less, AC circuits, and DC circuits shall be permitted to
occupy the same equipment wiring enclosure, cable, or raceway. All conductors
shall have an insulation rating equal to at least the maximum circuit voltage
applied to any conductor within the enclosure, cable, or raceway."
FAQs on Watt Stopper Ceiling Mount Occupancy
Sensors
Q. Do I need a power
pack with the occupancy sensor?
A. Yes, the 24VDC ceiling sensors require a power pack to switch.
See schematic #57-003 or 57-003-1
Q. How many power packs
do I need with a ceiling sensor?
A. The quantity of power packs depends on the number of circuits
to be controlled in the application. Contact our technical assistance
line at 1-800-879-8585 or TWS_support@wattstopper.com for specifics.
Q. How many sensors can
I use per power pack?
A. The quantity varies for each occupancy sensor and is shown
in the Product Section for each product under ordering information.
Or, contact our technical assistance line at 1-800-879-8585 or
TWS_support@wattstopper.com for specifics.
Q. What does the ASIC
chip do?
A. The ASIC (in our passive infrared, ultrasonic, and dual technology
sensors) reduces components which increases the reliability and
performance of the products. It also provides EMI and RFI immunity.
Q. Why use a ceiling
sensor instead of a wall switch in some situations?
A. Many applications are not suitable for a wall switch sensor
due to the size and shape of the space or the location of furniture
or other obstacles blocking the view of a wall switch.
Q. Does the CX-100-4
require the MB-1 industrial mount bracket?
A. No, but it is strongly recommended to obtain optimum performance
and a trouble free installation.
Q. Can I change an occupancy
sensor's lens in the field?
A. No. The lenses are shipped installed in the sensor and are
not meant to be changed in the field. Contact our technical assistance
line at 1-800-879-8585 or TWS_support@wattstopper.com for appropriate
lens selection
Q. Can I mount the CI-200
in a corner?
A. No, this is not recommended because with a 360 degree coverage
sensor, you will lose much of the coverage by mounting it in a
corner. There are other sensors that are better choices for corner
mounting such as the WPIR or CX series.
Q. What is the isolated
relay in the ceiling sensors used for?
A. IES/ASHRAE 90.1 and state codes require controls for lighting,
ventilation and HVAC. The isolated relays allow the sensors to
provide control input to DDC systems or VAV zones and their corresponding
light zones.
Q. Is there a minimum
distance between installation of an Ultrasonic sensor and a power pack ?
A. Yes, mount the power pack at least 6 inches from the sensor.
Q. Can I put the ultrasonic
sensor on the wall?
A. Yes, to control stairwell lighting, mount the sensor above the doorway or door swing.
Q. How do I choose the
right sensor for my hallway from all the products available?
A. The choice depends on the type of hallway or aisle way. If
the space has walls, an ultrasonic hallway sensor ( WT-2255 )
will work well. Without walls, in an open or partitioned floorplan,
the CX-100-1, CX-100-3, or CX-100-4 are good choices. In all cases
the sensors can work in conjunction with scheduled control using
other Watt Stopper products.
Q. Sometimes the lights
turn on automatically when I enter the room, other times they remain off. Why
don't they always turn on?
A. Check the light level adjustment. Your sensor or automatic
wall switch may be set so that the lights won't turn on if there
is ample natural light available. This light level feature can
be temporarily overridden by placing your hand over the lens (to
block out the natural light) or by setting the sensor to ignore
this feature.
FAQs on Watt Stopper DT-300 360˚ Dual Technology Occupancy
Sensors
Q. Using the low voltage
manual switching option, can I turn on and off the lighting?
A. Yes! There are two ways the switch can be used. If the sensor DIP is set to the manual on option, the switch needs to be used to turn on the lighting upon entry into the room. If the sensor is set to automatic mode and a switch is installed, the lights can be activated anytime the button is switched but the sensor will also automatically turn the lights on upon occupancy.
Q. What does it mean
that the light level has a one-step set-up?
A. Upon pressing the light level set-up button the sensor will average the light level in the room over a 25 second period. It will then set that level as the default to hold the lights off in the room.
Q. What mounting options
are available with the DT-300?
A. The sensor is designed to be mounted into a 3.5 inch hole. The hole can be through the ceiling tile or drywall. Compression clips hold the sensor in place. In addition, the sensor can be installed onto a 4 inch octagonal junction box. There are no mud-ring mounting options.
Q. On the DT-300, when
the manual switch is installed and the sensor is placed in either manual or
automatic mode, does the isolated relay work in sync with the sensor output?
A. Yes! The isolated relay works in conjunction with the sensor output. If the output is either triggered on by occupancy or turned on by the manual switch, the isolated relay is turned on and vice versa. The output cannot be manually turned off with an occupant in the room and the isolated relay will stay on due to occupancy.
Q. I have a bi-level
lighting application. One load is connected to a power pack that is connected
to the sensor occupancy output. The second load is connected to an auxiliary
pack that is connected to the sensor light level output. When I enter the room
at night the secondary load does not turn on immediately. Why does this happen?
A. When using the light level output of the DT-300 there is an intentional delay of 5 seconds so the sensor has time to measure the true light level of the room with the occupancy output triggered. Most bi-level daylighting applications look for a combined light level of both the daylight contribution and the artificial light contribution in comparison to the sensor daylight setpoint. This comparison takes a few seconds and then the sensor makes the decision to turn on one or both outputs.
FAQs on Watt Stopper Power Packs and Supplies
Q. How do I mount power
packs to a J Box?
A. Watt Stopper power packs contain a 1/2 inch snap-in nipple
for quick installation in 1/2 inch knock outs, on the outside
of an existing electrical enclosure. Three high voltage connections
are made inside the box. Three conductor 22 gauge wire connects
the power pack and the sensor.
Q. Can I use Watt Stopper
power packs in a Plenum ceiling?
A. Yes, the power packs' low voltage wiring is suitable for use
in Plenum ceilings. Install power packs in approved electrical
enclosures. Install in accordance with state, local and national
electrical codes.
Q. Can I wire the Power
packs so that the Class 1 (line voltage) and the Class 2 (low voltage wires
are in the box or enclosure?
A. Yes! The NEC has stated that Class 1 and Class 2 wires can
occupy the same enclosure as long as the rating of the wires equal
or exceed the maximum circuit rating. The power pack wiring is
rated 600V for the Class one wires and 300V for the Class two
wires. See NEC section 300-3(c).
Q. How close can the
power pack be mounted to a sensor?
A. No closer than six inches
Q. How many circuits
can I put on one power pack?
A. One circuit per B-series power pack. If two circuits need to
be controlled a C-series power pack or ARP may be utilized. See
schematic 59-110 for more information
Q. How many sensors can
I power from a auxilary pack?
A. None, the auxilary pack is only an additional, 20 amp relay which
provides for switching a second load from an existing sensor and
power pack. It does not have a transformer so it provides no power
to operate the sensors.
Q. Are Watt Stopper power
packs dual voltage?
A. No, power packs come in models specific for each voltage 120,
277, 347 and 220-240 VAC.
Q. What is the AT-120
and AT-277 used for?
A. The AT is a 24 VDC power supply which provides 800 mA of power
to an occupancy sensing system.
Q. Do you have to use
a power pack when the AT is used?
A. No, you can use a auxilary pack to switch loads or contactor coil.
Q. Where is the AT installed?
A. Usually in the ceiling or near the electrical panel.
Q. How much energy does
the Isolé itself use?
A. 6 watts without anything plugged into it.
Q. Do I need a special
electrical circuit to use the Isolé?
A. No, any standard, grounded 15 amp circuit will work.
Q. Can I use the Isolé
at home?
A. Yes, provided you have a properly grounded electrical circuit.
Q. How long will it take
for the equipment to go off?
A. The time delay is set on the back of the sensor and can range from 30 seconds
(minimum) to 30 minutes (maximum).
Q. My equipment keeps
turning off, how can I fix this?
A. Turn the time delay up on the back of the sensor.
Q. My equipment won't
turn on.
A. Check to make sure that the sensor is plugged into the powerstrip. Next make
sure that nothing is blocking the front of the sensor from "seeing"
you.
Q. The sensor is plugged
in and can "see" me but the equipment still doesn't turn on.
A. If your equipment still doesn't turn on, make sure that the plug strip is powered
up. Also make sure that both the "protected" and "grounded"
lights are on. If it still doesn't come on, then call the tech support hotline.
Q. My "protected"
light is off, can I still use it?
A. You should immediately replace the power strip if the protected light is off.
Q. My plug strip is making
popping and sizzling sounds and is smoking. What does that mean?
A. Popping, sizzling, and smoking are typical signs that the surge protection
features have been activated. You should immediately unplug your equipment and
the strip and replace it with a new Isolé. If your equipment has been damaged
then call the warranty hotline number found on the product literature.
Q: My Intellitimer Pro has logged occupancy but says the lights are off.
A: Adjust the light level light pipe so that it's pointing towards the illuminating
source of the room. With the lights on, push the test button and make sure the green LED is blinking.
If the LED is not blinking, adjust the light level trimpot.
Q: I have an old IT-100,
and I want to log in the year 2000. Is there anything I need to do to the software?
A: A new and improved version of the ITProSoft software is downloadable from our web site at from the literature download center. This software can be downloaded free and works with all ITs. Please read the download instructions and the new features section before downloading.
Q: I have a large room to log, but the IT-200 can only monitor 150sq/ft of
area. How do I log this area?
A: The easiest way to log a large room is to log using multiple IT-200s simultaneously. Then use the merge
function under the edit menu of the ITProSoft software.
You will need to open all the logs to be merged. The end result
log will appear as if the room was monitored by one logger.
Q: The room I am monitoring has low activity levels. My log file show few
data entries even though I logged for many days. Why are there so few log entries?
A: The IT-200 only records a log entry when there is a change in state. In other words,
an entry will be recorded only if there is occupancy or the light turns ON/OFF. Otherwise,
there are no entries based on date or time.
Q: I will be using occupancy sensors in the room where I'm logging, and I
want to make sure my data is accurate due to a possible difference in time delay
between the Occupancy sensor and the IT-200 logger. Can the logger time delay
be reset to reflect the occupancy sensor time delay?
A: Yes! When you initialize or reset the IT-200 before a logging session you can also set the time delay
to match the future occupancy sensor settings.
Q: Previously, I purchased an IT-100 and I needed to buy a serial port cable
seperatly. Do I need to buy a separate cable with the IT-200?
A: No! All IT-200s now come with a serial port cable included in the box.
Q: My IT-200 does not have the ITProSoft software included in the box even
though my older IT-100 did. How do I get the most recent ITProSoft software?
A: The ITProSoft software can now be downloaded off of The Watt Stopper web site free of charge. Go to the
literature download center at www.wattstopper.com to get the most up-to-date version of the software.
Q: My IT-200 came with a cable, but I have misplaced it. Can I use any serial
cable?
A: You must use a 9 pin straight through (not null modem) cable with the appropriate connectors
for the IT and the computer (one male and one female).
Q: How long do the LEDs flash when I push the test button to put the IT-200
into set-up mode?
A: The LEDs will flash for 60 seconds so you can setup the light level and occupancy detection for the IT-200.
If you have not completed the setup before the LEDs stop flashing, simply push the button again to continue the setup.
Q. What is the accuracy
of my FX-200 light meter?
A. The accuracy is +/- 2% of CIE standards. For instance at a
light level of 100 FC the +/-2% means the reading error would
be in the 98-102FC range
Q. I want to use my FX-200
light meter to measure Metal Halide light levels. How do I make sure I am getting
the correct reading?
A. The FX-200 is standardized for a fluorescent lights source.
There is a correction factor chart in the owners manual which
will help you correct the reading for the light type.
Frequently Asked Questions on DM HID Control
Q. What is the difference
between bi-level controllers DM-100, DM-105 and DM-105-WP?
A. The DM-100 is designed for retrofit projects and contains a capacitor. The
DM-105 and DM-105-WP are designed for new construction and outdoor use, respectively,
and are not supplied with capacitors.
Q. I have a DM control module but no controlling device. How can I get lights
to go high until I receive the controls?
A. If you have a DM-100 or DM-105, jumper terminals 1 and 3 together. If you
have a DM-105-WP, connect the red and blue leads of the module together.
Q. Can the DM-105-WP be used in cold storage and freezer applications?
A. Yes, the DM-105-WP has a gasketed knockout and cover, and it has an operating
temperature of -40 degrees C.
Q. Can you mount the
DM inside the housing of the lighting fixture?
A. No, the ballast temperature during operation causes the internal fixture
to exceed the operating temperature range of the DM.
Q. How many sensors or
devices can one DM supply power to?
A. Each DM-100 can supply 15 mA of power to a device or devices. However, if
the 24VDC outputs of multiple DM-100s are wired together, the individual amounts
are aggregated. For instance, three DM-100s linked together would supply 45mA
to a control device. For further information contact our technical assistance
line at 1-800-879-8585 or TWS_support@wattstopper.com.
Q. How many DM-100s can
be controlled by one control device? What if I want to use a lighting panel
to schedule 300 DMs to switch high and low at the same time? Can I control all
of those fixtures at once from one location?
A. Yes you can! Our literature states that you can control more than 100 DMs
at once. The reason we state it that way is for practical purposes when it comes
to laying out the job. People will probably find it easier to lay out their
control scenarios in increments of 100 DMs or less. The reality is that each
DM is its own power supply that can send a signal to the next DM in the zone
and so on.
Q. I noticed in your
schematics for low voltage connections to the DM that you say "control
in" pin 3 and 4 are common. What does that mean?
A. This means that a control signal from either a control device or another
DM can trigger the DM to go to high from either pin 3 or 4. If you have a timer
and an occupancy sensor connected to 3 and 4, respectively, and the timer signals
the DM to go to high, the DM cannot go to low until the timer times out because
the timer's signal is equivalent to an ON state. Once the timer times out, then
the sensor can signal the DM to go to high if there is occupancy. Or the two
inputs can be used for different zoning applications. It is important to remember
that if the DM is receiving a signal from another device to go to high any other
signals will be ignored until the original device allows the DM to drop back
to low.
Q. Will the DM affect the power factor or harmonics of my HID system?
A. No! The DM does not add harmonics to the system or change the power factor.
Any harmonic or power factor issues were in the system before the DM was installed.
The DM is only a power supply and a capacitor-switching unit.
Q. What about the crest factor? Does the DM change that in any way?
A. We have tested the crest factor for all the DMs at high and low. At high,
the crest factor is the same as with the fixture's original capacitor. At low,
the crest factor will actually drop a little bit because of the lower capacitor
value. Lower crest factors are generally better for lamp and capacitor life.
Q. I know I can connect the DM up to six feet away from the fixture. Can
I connect it farther away? Why is there a six feet limitation?
A. Yes you can connect the DM more than six feet away from the ballast. In fact
we have tested connections of more than 100ft using 18Awg wire. The reason a
six feet connection length is recommended is because we anticipate contractors
will use flexible conduit when connecting the DM remotely. NEC has a six-foot
limit for unsupported flexible conduit connections. (See the Technical Information
section for more information)
Q. What are the connection length limitations between individual DMs? Some
of my fixtures are pretty far apart.
A. We have tested connections of 100 ft between DMs using 18Awg wire. Using
even larger gauge wire the connections can even be longer.
Q. Is the DM-100 dependent on the line voltage of the ballast? I have a 480
volt ballast and I want to use the DM.
A. The DM takes its power from the secondary side of the ballast not the line
voltage side. The secondary ballast voltage is fairly consistent regardless
of the line voltage input. The DM is connected between the ballast and the lamp
and can operate on a range of currents between 1 and 4 amps. The DM-100 is current
specific between 1-4 amps which includes most HID fixtures between 175 and 1000
watts.
Q. I have a 400 watt high pressure sodium fixture and the fixture capacitor
is specified as 48 uF. I want use the DM-100-400HPS to control this fixture.
Is there any problem with this?
A. Yes there is a problem. The total capacitance value of the DM-100-400HPS
is 55uF. It is recommended that the capacitor value of the DM-100 match that
of the existing fixture capacitor for optimum performance and lamp life. A +/-
2 capacitance variance is acceptable by most fixture manufacturers. Check with
the manufacturer of your fixture for more information.
Frequently Asked Questions on Outdoor
Sensors
Q. Can one EW/EN line voltage outdoor sensor control multiple loads?
A. Yes! The outdoor sensor can be connected to multiple loads and/or multiple
sensors can control multiple loads. See The Watt Stopper wiring diagram #57-150
or #57-151.
Q. What is the maximum load rating of the EWF outdoor sensor/ PAR lamp holder
combination?
A. The maximum load rating for the EWF outdoor sensor is 0-1000 watts. However,
the maximum load of the lamp holders are150 watts per lamp holder. The EWF sensor
can be used to control other lighting loads besides the lamp holders. For further
information contact our technical assistance line at 1-800-879-8585 or TWS_support@wattstopper.com.
Q. Do I need to use a wall switch with the Watt Stopper outdoor sensors?
A. A wall switch is not required for the sensor to operate correctly. However,
for installations where the sensor may need to be temporarily overridden, a
wall switch is needed.
Q. What is the current consumption of the low voltage EW?
A. 7 mA
Q. To work effectively, how should the wall switch be wired in relationship
to the outdoor sensor?
A. The switch should be wired on the line side of the sensor. The switch can
then be used as an override to turn the lights on. See The Watt Stopper wiring
diagram #57-150
Q. Can I control low voltage loads with The Watt Stopper outdoor sensors?
A. Yes! There are versions of outdoor sensors that offer an additional isolated
relay along with the normal line voltage relay. The isolated relay can be used
to control low voltage loads. See The Watt Stopper wiring diagram #57-151.
Q. Does The Watt Stopper make a low voltage outdoor sensor?
A. Yes, the EW Low Voltage Outdoor Motion Sensor. It has the same features as
the line voltage sensors, but with low voltage operation.
FAQs on the AS-100 Automatic Control Switch
Q. We will be connecting the AS-100 switches to occupancy sensors in our
facility. Does the sensors user-adjustable time delay affect the switch, too?
A. Yes. The time delay you set on the sensor will determine how long lights will remain on after the space is unoccupied. A minimum time delay of 5 minutes is necessary for the switch.
Q. How many AS-100 switches can I include on a circuit controlled by a lighting
control panel?
A. You can install an unlimited number of switches on a single circuit. Each switch can be manually used to operate lighting connected to just that switch. However, they will all receive the same automatic ON/OFF, or delay OFF signal from the LCP.
Q. Do I need to plan for signal wiring to the AS-100 switch?
A. No. Because the switch operates using power interruption as its command signals, no signal wiring is required. The power interrupt signal is sent over the same wire that provides the power to the switch and the load.
Q. I will be using the AS-100 with a lighting control panel. What are the
wiring requirements between the panel & the AS-100?
A. The AS-100 wires similar to a regular wall switch, so there is no need for individual branch circuit wiring to be home run back to the lighting control panel. Wire the same as a standard line voltage switch.
Q. Can the AS-100 replace a standard wall switch?
A. Yes the AS-100 switch is a line voltage switch that can replace a standard wall switch and does not require connection to a neutral wire.
Q. Can the AS-100 be used to do three-way and four-way switching?
A. Yes the AS-100 switch may be used for three-way, four-way and additional
multi-way switching. The same model used for single switch applications can
be used for multi-switching applications.
FAQs on WR Residential Wall Switch
Q: Will the WR-100 operate properly even if I am not controlling the minimum
load requirement for the WR-100?
A: NO. The WR must have a minimum load of 25W in a single pole circuit and 50W in a three-way circuit.
Q: My light will not
turn on when I move in front of the WR-100. I am using it in a three-way application
with an existing wall switch. What should I do?
A: When using the WR-100 with an existing wall switch, make sure the wall switch
is turned ON.
Q: Can I turn the lights off when the room is occupied?
A: Yes. the Auto ON/OFF button can be pressed at any time to turn the lights
off.
Q: Can I use the WR-100 in a commercial building?
A: No. The WR-100 operates on 120V only. Using the WR-100 in a commercial building
will void the warranty.
Q: . What should I do if the green backlight does not light after applying
power?
A: Reverse the placement of the L1 and L2 connected wires.
Q: I have the WR-100
installed a room with a window. Why doesn't the light turn on when I walk in
the room?
A: The light level function is enabled. (Mode 1) Select Mode 2 or 3 to disable the light level function.
Q: 20 seconds after I
have finished selecting a mode my lights flash. What does it mean?
A: The light flashes to confirm mode selection.
FAQs on WN-100 Motion Sensor Nightlight
Q. What is the power consumption of the WN at standby (when nightlight is
illuminated)?
A. The WN consumes 0.75W when the load is off and the LEDs are lit.
Q. What type of LED is inside the WN?
A. We use and recommend Amber (aluminum indium gallium phosphide, AlInGaP) LEDs by Agilent technologies. This type of LED has one of the best reliability records and the least lumen depreciation characteristics of all presently manufactured LEDs.
Q. What is the lumen depreciation of the Amber LEDs?
A. These LEDs have a lumen depreciation of 20% at 100,000 hours, which is one of the best ratings for longevity and lumen depreciation.
Q. I would like to use a different LED color and type in the WN. What can
I do?
A. There are different LED types and colors on the market. We have chosen amber LED because this technology has the best longevity and lumen depreciation. Other 5mm LEDs can be used in the WN with the understanding that we cannot guarantee the long-term performance of the LED. Talk to your District or Regional Manager if you would like to have WNs with different LEDs.
Q. What is the LED light output of the WN?
A. The light output is about 0.18FC at 1ft and 0.015FC at 3ft
Q. Why doesn?t the WN nightlight appear to be very bright when I view it
during the daytime?
A. At night, your eye goes through a nighttime adaptation to light. Light that may appear dim initially will become brighter as the eye adapts to low light conditions. The WN was designed to provide enough light for a person to locate the bathroom in a typical hotel room at night. Once the guest is in the room, the WN should provide enough light to use the bathroom facilities without turning on overhead lighting. This scenario is intended to represent typical eyesight. There are wide variations in the way human eyes respond to light and dark environments.
FAQs on WR Residential Wall Switch
Q: Will the WR-100 operate properly even if I am not controlling the minimum
load requirement for the WR-100?
A: NO. The WR must have a minimum load of 25W in a single pole circuit and 50W in a three-way circuit.
Q: My light will not
turn on when I move in front of the WR-100. I am using it in a three-way application
with an existing wall switch. What should I do?
A: When using the WR-100 with an existing wall switch, make sure the wall switch
is turned ON.
Q: Can I turn the lights off when the room is occupied?
A: Yes. the Auto ON/OFF button can be pressed at any time to turn the lights
off.
Q: Can I use the WR-100 in a commercial building?
A: No. The WR-100 operates on 120V only. Using the WR-100 in a commercial building
will void the warranty.
Q: . What should I do if the green backlight does not light after applying
power?
A: Reverse the placement of the L1 and L2 connected wires.
Q: I have the WR-100
installed a room with a window. Why doesn't the light turn on when I walk in
the room?
A: The light level function is enabled. (Mode 1) Select Mode 2 or 3 to disable the light level function.
Q: 20 seconds after I
have finished selecting a mode my lights flash. What does it mean?
A: The light flashes to confirm mode selection.
FAQs
on Miro Controls
The following FAQs represent common specification oriented FAQs.
Magnetic Low Voltage
Rocky Mountain Hardware
Touch screen
Interfacing Miro
Setup
Fan controller
Repeater
Q. Is the Wireless Miro’s Top Dog protocol the same as/compatible with Zigbee or Zensys RF protocol?
A. No, Miro TopDog frequency agile RF protocol is proprietary, which allowed us maximize its performance as a lighting control system.
Q. Since Wireless Miro operates on the 900MHz band (actually 902MHz to 928 MHz) can a Miro system cause interference or be interfered with by other RF products?
A. No, Wireless Miro is frequency agile, which means that it broadcasts each message over five channels and the devices listen over the clearest channel ensuring reliable communication without interference from other RF devices.
Q. Can multiple Miro systems within RF range interfere with one another?
A. No, each Miro system automatically assigns a unique ID ensuring that one Miro system can not interfere with another.
Q. Since each Miro system has a unique ID can I expand my system?
A. Yes, just install the new device(s) and they will receive a broadcast of the previously assigned house ID.
Q. What is the capacity of a Miro installation and how does this compare to other RF systems on the market?
A. Miro’s capacity is 1023 groups/devices and 127 rooms. (Each room can support 15 scenes and there are 10 house scenes). This capacity is significantly greater than the leading RF system.
Q. Can I adjust the fade rate of scenes?
A. Yes, the optional touch screen (MRDS10) allows fade rates up to 254 seconds. Fade rates can also be adjusted when using the MR232 serial interface connected to an automation system.
Q. Do I need to use a repeater?
A. A repeater is typically not necessary for partial home lighting control or small homes, however it is recommended for homes over 2500 square feet or where there is obstructing material such as concrete walls or floors. You may use up to three repeaters for very large homes.
Q. What is the typical RF range?
A. There is no precise way to predetermine the RF range as it is impacted by a number of application specific factors such as the wall composition, amount/placement of windows/mirrors, etc. Typical range is up to 100 feet (diameter) without a repeater and an additional 100 feet per repeater with up three repeaters for up to 300 foot coverage.
Q. What is the difference between room level scenes/scene controllers and house level scene/scene controllers?
A. House scene controllers are typically used for creating whole house scenes, for example setting lights throughout the house for the entertaining scene or for creating pathways of lights such as from the entrance to the master bedroom. Room scene controllers are used for specific rooms or areas. By specifying room scene controllers and house scene controllers you can create a layering effect. Functionally house scenes, by default, are additive (piled on), while room scenes are transitional (one scene will replace the previous scene), however each device can create recall scenes in either fashion. Room scene controllers have proportional ramping, while house scene controllers do not and room scene controllers have 15 scene capacity compared to 10 for the house.
Q. How is system programming accomplished?
A. All programming is accomplished by simply pressing on the Miro device which will send an RF broadcast message. Programming allows them to be bound into the desired groups, and room configurations.
Q. Once the system is configured can it be locked?
A. Yes, there is a very simple process to the system from being tampered with. The Wireless Miro system is capable of being locked at the house (global) or room (local) level.
Q. What happens in the event of a power failure?
A. Miro has a non-volatile memory which maintains all system set-up and programming. Upon return of power, the memory restores the lighting exactly as it was when the power failed.
Q. What is under load, overload and short circuit protection?
A. These are convenience and safety features that alert—through a flashing red LED—the user to the fact that there is an issue that needs to be resolved.
Q. Why do you recommend an MRD4 Universal dimmer over an MRD2 incandescent dimmer for basic incandescent loads?
A. Actually there are a number of reasons. First, we have found that the originally specified load often changes (e.g. from standard incandescent to low voltage), second the MRD4 has a lower minimal load requirement (25W vs. 60W), and lastly it is always preferable to operate product with a neutral. Note: There is no price premium for a universal dimmer.
Q. Then when should I specify an MRD2?
A. Specify MRD2 only when you have incandescent loads and no neutral conductor is available.
Q. How can one dimmer dim practically all dimmable loads?
A. Miro universal dimmers have a patented design which accommodates virtually any type of lighting load to be correctly controlled.
Q. Are neutrals required?
A. Yes, all products except an MRD2 require a neutral.
Q. Are dimmer j-boxes required?
A. They are not required, however they are recommended whenever possible. Use of deeper j-boxes in new construction provides more space for wire and allows for today’s deeper electronic devices.
Q. How can I learn more about Miro?
A. Numerous documents are available including a comprehensive DVD, Installation Guide, color brochures, data sheets and all installation instructions are available from our web site.
Q. Are certified installers required?
A. No, Miro has been designed so that it may be installed and configured by a qualified electrician or a knowledgeable DIY. Scene setting is simple, but is best done after reviewing the installation guide.
Q. Is technical and application support available?
A. Yes, technical and design support is available from our Technical Support Center. Call 1-800-879-8585.
Q. Are Miro RF dimmers compatible with Magnetic Low Voltage loads?
A. Yes, within their load handling capacity.
Q. Which Miro RF dimmers will work with magnetic low voltage lighting?
A. The MRD4 and DRD4 (decorator style) universal dimmers are compatible with magnetic low voltage lighting.
Q. What if the transformer is external and not integrated into the fixture?
A. The MRD4 or DRD4 universal dimmers will work with internal or externally transformed MLV lighting.
Q. Will Miro RF dimmers work with Q-Tran transformers?
A. Yes, the MRD4 or DRD4 will. We have tested the MRD4 with the Q-Tran QLS-300 and found it to work flawlessly.
Q. Will Miro RF dimmers work with Acme transformers?
A. Yes, the MRD4 will. We have tested the MRD4 with the Acme model 81050 and found it to work correctly.
Q. What if I don’t know the model or manufacturer of the lighting system (e.g. retrofit applications)?
A. When in doubt, always use a universal dimmer. It has been tested with many different lighting systems and found to be compatible with magnetic low voltage lighting and will work with electronic low voltage lighting as well.
Q. Do you offer any other types of cover plates?
A. We offer Rocky Mountain Hardware cast bronze plates in seven different patinas. However, they are only available for the Architectural style (part numbers beginning with M, eg. MRD4) products.
Q. My cover plate does not match the picture shown in the catalog. Why not?
A. The photos shown in the brochure are provided as a representation of the appearance of the RMH patinas. However, due to the printing process and the nature of the product itself, the actual appearance of the product will vary from the photo. Additionally, the various elements of time, touch, and climate work together with the bronze and the patina to create a unique hue. Each piece, then, distinctly reflects its surroundings.
Q. What is a patina finish?
A. The bronze's patina is a living finish that develops as the product ages. During production, the bronze's oxidized hues (patina) are enhanced through an element bath. Touch, climate, and weather exposure will continue to change the bronze's color, sheen, and texture.
Rocky Mountain Hardware considers wear due to climate and use as the patina's natural aging process, which enhances the appearance of the bronze. As a result, Rocky Mountain Hardware does not guarantee product patina finishes and will not repair or replace patina finishes under the product warranty.
Q. How do I clean my Rocky Mountain Hardware plates?
A. The look of the bronze will change with time. Cleaning all surfaces with a mild soap, water, and a non-abrasive cloth will help the hardware age gracefully. To protect the patina finish, apply a high-quality clear paste wax.
Q. How will salt and sea water affect the color of my Rocky Mountain Hardware?
A. Salt and sea water will hasten the aging process by changing the bronze's color, sheen, and texture.
Q. In what sizes are the RMH cover plates available?
A. RMH cover plates are available in sizes from 1 to 4 gangs.
Q. Do you have a touchscreen for the Miro system?
A. Yes, we offer the MRDS10 which can be mounted in a 3 gang wall box, or may be placed on a flat surface using the optional cradle (MRDC10).
Q. Once I have the touchscreen configured, can it be locked to prevent tampering?
A. Yes, the touchscreen can set the Room or House lock. Alternatively, the touchscreen can be password protected to prevent inadvertent changes. To access these features, click on the Tools icon in the top center of the screen.
Q. My touchscreen is password protected and I cannot remember the password, can it be unlocked?
A. Yes, contact Tech Support for assistance at: 800-879-8585.
Q. I replaced the batteries in my touchscreen, but it will not power up. What should I do?
A. The touchscreen uses rechargeable NiMH AA batteries. Over time, these batteries may stop charging correctly due to age. When replacing with new batteries be sure to purchase the correct size and type of replacement batteries. The new batteries will need to be charged fully before you will be able to use the touchscreen away from the charging cradle. Simply place the touchscreen back in the wall box or cradle to allow the new batteries to charge fully. Note that you can still use the touchscreen while the batteries are charging in the wall box or cradle.
Q. Can I interface Miro with other home automation systems?
A. Yes, we offer two primary means of bridging Miro to other home automation systems. For systems with an RS232 protocol we offer an RS232 interface (MR232) and for those devices requiring a contact closure output we offer room and house level scene interfaces (MRHC3/MRRC3).
Q. Which automation systems may I use to control Miro?
A. Currently, AMX and Destiny Networks have modules developed for Miro. In general, any system which has a serial port and is able to send ASCII strings may be compatible. Contact Tech Support for the more information on the specific system in which you are interested.
Q. Can I use a universal remote to control my Miro system and my TV, DVD etc?
A. Yes, by using the Miro IR interface (MRIR1) you (or your AV installer) can teach your remote universal remote the Miro IR codes. Once learned into your IR remote you will be able to recall your Miro scenes and control your electronics from the same remote.
Q. What components are needed to automate my outside lights?
A. You will need a Miro scene Interface (MRRC3 or MRHC3) and a Miro time clock (MSC100). This will allow the outdoor lighting controlled by Miro switches or dimmers to be automated by the time clock so that they turn on a sunset and can remain on until dawn or be switched off at a specific time.
Q. I started a binding but it stopped. What happened? What do I do?
A. House or Room binding modes will automatically terminate after 10 minutes (House) or 5 minutes (Room). If you were not finished with the setup process simply restart a binding from the last device that was set up and continue from there. See the Time Limit for Binding Processes sidebar on page 6 of the Wireless Miro Installation Guide.
Q. How do I remember where I started the binding?
A. The device where binding was initiated will be blinking the fastest (3Hz). See House Binding on page 5 of the Wireless Miro Installation Guide.
Q. My status LED is flashing red what does that mean?
A. Miro dimmers, plug-in lamp modules and fan controls include patented load protection features (no load, overload & short circuit) indicated by a red flashing LED. See Test for Load Function on page 3 of the Wireless Miro Installation Guide.
Q. Why aren’t all of my LEDs flashing green in programming mode?
A. This could be caused because some devices are out of radio range, or most commonly, you have multiple house IDs. First try resetting the unresponsive devices to factory default and begin a binding from a working device. See Reset to Factory Defaults on page 13 of the Wireless Miro Installation Guide.
Q. How do I convert a 3 or 4 way switch to Miro Wireless?
A. Replacing a 3 or 4 way switch with wireless requires one dimmer (DRD4/MRD4) or switch (DRD3/MRD3) and a multi-location controller (DRD8/MRD8) for each additional location that controls the lights. For example replacing a 3 way switch set for dimming requires a DRD4 at one end and a DRD8 at the other end. See Replacing Existing 3-way and 4-way Circuits on page 14 of the Wireless Miro Installation Guide.
Q. I linked devices to my house scene controller why don’t my house scenes work?
A. The default behavior of the House scene controller is to turn off all lights in the house by pressing the Off or Scene 5 buttons. When programming House scenes after the controller is placed in binding mode you must then press the desired scene button that should control the lights. See Setting up Whole House Scenes on page 7 of the Wireless Miro Installation Guide.
Q. Are Miro fan controllers compatible with Casablanca fans?
A. No, Casablanca uses a variable frequency method for fan speed control. You will need to use the Casablanca controller for your Casablanca fan. If the Miro Architectural devices are being used (those beginning with M) you will need a MPA2 Decorator Adaptor. See page 38 of the Miro catalog.
Q. What happens if there is a power failure when the home is in Away mode?
A. When normal power is restored the repeater will resume where it left off in the playback mode. For example, if utility power is off for one hour, when it comes back on the repeater continue occupancy emulation where it left off + 1 hour.
Q. How long could power be off before occupancy emulation would fail to restart?
A. Assuming the system was in Away mode when the power went out, power could be off for up to 12 hours and Away mode would resume. After 12 hours has elapsed, all lighting would revert to the state it was in when the power failure occurred. Occupancy emulation would not resume after a power outage lasting longer than 12 hours.
